Exfoliation is a key step in skincare routines, but with so many products on the market, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed by the choices. Do you really need to buy expensive products to achieve smooth, glowing skin? We spoke to the experts to break down the science and find out if you need to splurge on exfoliating treatments.
The Importance of Exfoliation
Exfoliating is essential for achieving glowing skin, as it helps remove dead cells from the surface that can make the skin look dull and dry. While the skin naturally sheds its outer layer, this process slows down as we age, particularly after our mid-20s. As a result, using a physical or chemical exfoliant can help speed up the process and enhance the effectiveness of your skincare and makeup products.
Dr. Jennifer Owens, owner of The Glow Clinic in Dublin and Cork, emphasizes that exfoliation should be treated like a new exercise routine. Start slow and experiment with different products to find what works best for your skin. She notes that social media has made skincare knowledge more accessible but also more confusing, with some people overusing acids or following harmful TikTok skincare routines.
Physical vs. Chemical Exfoliation
There are two main types of exfoliation: physical and chemical.
Physical exfoliation: involves manually scrubbing away dead skin cells using tools or products like exfoliating scrubs. In the past, abrasive products like apricot-kernel scrubs were popular, but experts caution against using these, as they can cause microtears in the skin. Instead, products with spherical, non-plastic microbeads such as jojoba, or gentle ingredients like oat or rice powder, are safer alternatives for physical exfoliation.
Many modern exfoliants combine both physical and chemical exfoliation. These products provide an instant smooth feeling, thanks to gentle scrubbing action, while also incorporating chemical ingredients like acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells.
Chemical exfoliation: involves using acids or enzymes that dissolve dead skin cells at different speeds and depths. There are many options available, each with unique properties. Louise O’Brien, Education Manager for Dermalogica Ireland, stresses the importance of frequency and always following up with hydration and SPF when using exfoliants.
Which Acids Are Best for Exfoliation?
Acids are a popular choice for chemical exfoliation, and as Dr. Owens puts it, “Acids are like Mr Men books, they all have different personalities.” Each acid works differently depending on your skin’s needs.
Glycolic acid (AHA) is a fast-acting exfoliant that speeds up cell turnover and can help reduce pigmentation. It is widely available in affordable products but can be irritating if overused.
Lactic acid (AHA) is gentler than glycolic acid, with a larger molecular structure that makes it less likely to penetrate deeply into the skin. It’s a great option for those seeking both exfoliation and hydration and can be used daily by many people.
Polyhydroxy acid (PHA) is even gentler, making it suitable for sensitive skin. It exfoliates the upper surface of the skin without irritation.
Salicylic acid (BHA) is oil-soluble and works wonders for clearing blackheads and blemishes. It’s ideal for oily skin but can be drying, so it’s better suited to younger skin.
Do You Need to Spend Big on Exfoliators?
Exfoliating doesn’t have to be expensive. The key to success is finding the right product for your skin type rather than splurging on high-end options. Dr. O’Brien cautions against over-exfoliating, as this can lead to irritation, redness, and dehydration. It’s important to stick to one exfoliating product designed for daily use and use other active ingredients, like retinol, thoughtfully.
Affordable Exfoliating Products to Try
If you’re looking for products that will get the job done without breaking the bank, here are a few recommendations from the experts:
Medik8 Press and Glow Tonic (€37.50): This toner contains PHA gluconolactone, which exfoliates gently while prickly pear enzymes dissolve dead cells. Aloe and acai hydrate and soothe the skin, making it suitable for daily use.
Neostrata Smooth Surface Glycolic Daily Peel (€54.95): This two-part product includes 36 single-use pads and a glycolic acid solution. It provides a potent exfoliation and hydration boost but should be used gradually, especially for those new to glycolic acid.
Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant (from €19.50): This cult favorite contains finely milled rice powder that dissolves on contact with water, offering a gentle exfoliation. It also includes salicylic acid and fruit enzymes like papain for a thorough but gentle cleanse.
Conclusion
Exfoliating is an important part of any skincare routine, but it’s essential to choose the right product for your skin type. While you don’t need to spend a fortune to get great results, understanding the different types of exfoliants and how they work will help you avoid unnecessary irritation. Be sure to start slowly, listen to your skin, and always follow up with hydration and sunscreen.
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