Khaite’s Fall/Winter 2025 runway show brought a bold shift in beauty trends, signaling the return of matte skin, a departure from the glossy, dewy look that has dominated the beauty scene in recent years. Designer Catherine Holstein, a native New Yorker, continues to draw inspiration from the city’s iconic downtown vibe, delivering a collection that channels the spirit of late filmmaker David Lynch.
The show’s beauty direction, orchestrated by makeup artist Diane Kendal and hairstylist Guido Palau, remains consistent with the brand’s emphasis on sleek and understated elegance. “Great designers always have a vision for the woman they are designing for, and that includes the beauty,” Palau commented. “We are here to help extract that vision.”
This season’s beauty statement could be summed up as “effortlessly cool.” Kendal’s matte skin choice, a surprising shift from the recent trend of luminous, glowing faces, was at the forefront. “It’s time,” Kendal explained backstage, referring to the transition from glossy to velvety matte. The matte look, however, was not dry or flat—rather, it had a soft, polished finish. The makeup incorporated cool-toned contours that complemented the collection’s color palette. For a select few models, a subtle touch of black eyeshadow with an almost oil-like sheen was added to the eyelids for a relaxed, experimental feel. “It’s meant to be something you wanted to try, so you did,” Kendal added.
The prep for achieving this sophisticated matte look was crucial, with hydration playing a key role. Before applying NARS foundation, skincare expert Athena Hewett, founder of Monastery Skincare, prepped the models’ skin using a new, top-secret product. “It works as both a cleanser and a moisturizer,” Hewett shared, massaging the product into the skin with an egg-shaped gua sha tool. “Models are constantly on the move during Fashion Week, so the skin prep serves as both a moment of relaxation and a way to nourish the skin between makeup applications.”
On the hair front, Palau’s vision was centered around a natural, “nonchalant” aesthetic. Hair was styled to look effortlessly tousled, with the help of Zara’s salt spray and texture balm. A distinctive detail for the show included over 15 models wearing small, newsboy-style caps, further emphasizing the laid-back yet chic vibe of the collection. Palau described the overall look as “very downtown girls with uptown money.”
As Khaite continues to define modern elegance with a downtown edge, the return of matte skin marks a new chapter in the ongoing evolution of beauty on the runway.
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